The Original Grail Returns
The UNDFTD x Air Jordan 4 (2025) is one of the most anticipated sneaker releases of the year, but its legacy began two decades ago. The Undefeated x Air Jordan 4 collaboration is widely considered one of the most influential and elusive sneaker collaborations in history. First released in 2005 in extremely limited quantities, the sneaker is not only a grail for collectors, but also a marker of how boutique collaborations can shape the trajectory of sneaker culture. This blog walks through the full history of the UNDFTD x Air Jordan 4 collaboration—from the original deep-blue prototype to the upcoming 2025 retro—with images and release details for each major version.
2003: The Deep Blue "Blackberry" Prototype
The first Undefeated x Air Jordan 4 prototype appeared in 2003 and was nicknamed the "Blackberry." This unreleased sample featured a deep navy suede upper, black midsole, and purple accents—a unique direction at the time. Ultimately, Undefeated (Eddie Cruz, the founder) agreed to pass the colorway over to Eminem, who adapted it into the Air Jordan 4 "Encore," released in 2004. This decision prompted Undefeated to explore a new direction inspired by military aesthetics.
Eminem x AJ4: The Encore Tie-In
Using the original deep blue prototype as inspiration, Eminem's Air Jordan 4 "Encore" debuted in 2004 with premium blue nubuck, grey lace tabs, red eyelets, and a black midsole. Only 50 pairs were made. While not part of the Undefeated line directly, this version played a key role in shifting Undefeated’s design toward the military theme.
2005: Final Retail Release (72 Pairs)
The official Undefeated x Air Jordan 4 released in 2005, limited to just 72 pairs. It featured a military olive green upper made of nubuck and ballistic mesh, bright safety orange sockliner and eyelets, black rubber midsoles, and a Velcro tongue patch with removable military-style tags. The design was directly inspired by MA-1 bomber jackets, and it marked the first-ever collaboration between Jordan Brand and a sneaker boutique.
2005 Samples: Alternate Versions of the UNDFTD x Air Jordan 4
The ‘Traffic Jam’ Sample
Often referred to as the ballistic mesh version, this sample used a unique fabric nicknamed "Traffic Jam," taken from Undefeated’s earlier Ballistic Dunk collaboration. This version closely mirrored the final release but with a rougher, more textured fabric base and a darker tone. Only 1 of 2 known pairs is owned by Instagram collector @mc1snkrs and the other by UNDFTD.
The Leather Sample
Another 2005 sample replaced the original nubuck upper with leather. The tonal green remained similar, but the overall finish was smoother and shinier due to the leather construction. This pair also maintained the black and olive midsole combination with a cream visible air bubble.
The Saturated Green Sample
Distinct for its vivid, more saturated olive green suede upper, this pair stood out among other versions. The base material felt similar to the GR release, but the tone leaned closer to a deep forest green. This version also utilized a black midsole and safety orange lining.
2017: The Rare Retro Samples ("Rare Air")
In 2017, Undefeated quietly worked on a retro version of their AJ4 collaboration. This sample featured:
- The same olive green tone with ballistic mesh
- A stitched tongue tag (replacing the original Velcro)
- "RARE AIR" embroidered on the tongue
- Nike Air heel branding
According to collector @mc1snkrs, fewer than 52 pairs of the 2017 sample are known to exist. A rarer variation exists featuring the OG shape from 1989 AJ4 molds—rumored to be limited to less than 8 pairs. The reason for these OG-shaped retros remains unknown.
2025: UNDFTD x Air Jordan 4 Release Details (August 2, 2025)
Marking 20 years since the original release, Undefeated and Jordan Brand are bringing back the AJ4 in its true form. The 2025 retro features:
- Olive green nubuck and ballistic mesh
- Safety orange highlights
- Black rubber outsole and midsole
- Restored Velcro patch tongue
Unlike the hyper-limited 2005 release, this retro will be available through In-Person events and select online releases. Rumors have suggested stock numbers for this pair is 'in the hundreds of thousands', but even with 200,000 pairs available - Is that enough supply for the return of the original 'Grail sneaker'? Chicago had the first pop up with Los Angeles, Las Vegas, Ney York City, and Pheonix being other possible locations for pop-up events. It is currently available via EQL Raffle on Undefeated's wedbsite for entry, with a fulll online release on August 2nd. 2025. It's an opportunity for new collectors to own a piece of history. For sneakerheads searching for the latest info on the UNDFTD x Air Jordan 4 (2025), this is the definitive drop you don’t want to miss.
History Repeats Itself
From the deep navy prototype to ballistic mesh samples, leather trials, rare 2017 "Rare Air" retros, and now the UNDFTD x Air Jordan 4 (2025) release, the lineage of this sneaker is unmatched. This article provides a complete history of the Undefeated x Air Jordan 4 collaboration, blending sample knowledge with confirmed release details. For legit checks, early links, and in-depth sneaker content, stay tuned to Marching Dogs. Check out our listing here for the UNDFTD x Air Jordan 4 (2025) and secure your pair today!
